The craft
Chikankari & Banarasi
Two textile traditions from Uttar Pradesh, each shaped by generations of skilled hands. Here's a short introduction to how they're made and how to look after them.
Chikankari — the hand embroidery of Lucknow
Chikankari is a style of hand embroidery long associated with Lucknow. It is traditionally worked in white thread on fine, light fabrics such as muslin and cotton, though today you’ll also see it on georgette, chiffon, chanderi and in coloured threads. Its beauty lies in restraint: soft floral and paisley motifs built up from many tiny stitches.
How a Chikankari piece comes together
- Design — a pattern is drawn and carved into wooden blocks.
- Printing — the design is block-printed onto the fabric in a washable dye to guide the embroidery.
- Embroidery — the fabric is embroidered by hand, stitch by stitch. Depending on the density of work this can take days or weeks.
- Washing & finishing — the piece is washed to remove the printed outlines, then starched and pressed.
Some well-known stitches
Shadow work (bakhiya)
Stitched on the reverse of sheer fabric so the thread glows softly through from the front.
Murri & phanda
Tiny knot-like stitches that form the centres of flowers and add raised texture.
Jaali
Threads are carefully eased apart to create delicate open, net-like areas — without cutting the fabric.
Tepchi & keel kangan
Running and outline stitches used for stems, leaves and fine borders.
Banarasi — the woven silks of Varanasi
Banarasi textiles are woven in and around Varanasi and are known for their brocade work: motifs such as florals, creepers, paisleys (kairi) and intricate borders are woven directly into the fabric using extra weft threads, often including zari (metallic thread). The result is a fabric with a rich, heirloom feel that is especially loved for weddings and festive occasions.
Common Banarasi styles
- Katan — a pure silk weave, smooth and lustrous.
- Organza (kora) — a sheer, crisp silk base with woven motifs.
- Georgette — a lighter, flowing base that drapes softly.
- Brocade & zari work — dense woven patterns, often in gold or silver tones.
Each product page lists the fabric of that specific piece, so you know exactly what you’re getting.
Caring for your pieces
Chikankari
- Hand wash gently in cold water with a mild detergent, or dry clean.
- Wash dark or coloured pieces separately the first few times.
- Don't wring — press out water gently and dry in shade.
- Iron on the reverse side, using a cloth over delicate embroidery.
Banarasi
- Dry clean only is the safest choice for silk and zari.
- Store folded in a soft cotton or muslin cloth, away from damp.
- Refold every few months to avoid permanent creases along the zari.
- Keep perfume and deodorant away from zari to prevent tarnishing.
Always check the care label or product page — specific pieces may have their own instructions.